Lower Saxony Grünkohl and Pinkel is one of those magical dishes that vividly captures the essence of German winter—bracing air outside, steam billowing from a hearty stew inside, and tables of friends savoring the region’s most soulful food. This platter of tender simmered kale, chunks of golden potato, smoky sausages, and rich bacon hails from northwestern Germany. In particular, it’s synonymous with Lower Saxony and the cities flanking the River Weser—Oldenburg, Bremen, and beyond.
The pairing of Grünkohl (curly green kale) and Pinkel (North German smoked sausage studded with oats and bacon) is centuries old and closely tied to community. Historically, this meal wasn’t enjoyed until after the first frost—said to improve kale’s sweetness and texture. Thus, through November and the heart of February, locals still come together for “Kohlfahrten” (kale walks): big social hikes through country fields, concluded by a jubilant feast at a village inn or cozy kitchen table.
The distinctiveness of this recipe comes, first, from the kale. Not all kale is the same; Grünkohl is leafier, less tough than what’s often available elsewhere, but curly kale or even savoy cabbage can yield delicious results. Blanching the kale is crucial—it removes bitterness and preserves a deep green color. Old-style recipes thicken the stew with a scoop of oats, a trick both for texture and, in olden days, for stretching precious protein across more plates.
Pinkel sausage, meanwhile, is native to the Oldenburg and Bremen regions. Dense, smoky, suspended with bits of bacon fat and oats, it brings both richness and hearty thump to the meal. Where Pinkel cannot be found, other smoked sausages—like bratwurst or kielbasa—offer reliable substitutes, though do try tracking down the original for an authentic experience.
Serve with tangy coarse mustard, brown rye bread, and, for a festive touch, a shot of Korn or aquavit—the kale walk drink of choice!
Don't let the richness fool you: kale’s a superfood packed with vitamins K, A, and C; fiber; and trace minerals. The appeal here is the blend—the dark green leaves soak up smoky broth and meat flavors without disintegrating, while oats gently thicken the mixture. Potatoes provide satisfying structure but never outshine the star vegetable.
Sausage and bacon do push up fat and sodium, making the dish an indulgence for periodic winter cosiness. For lighter everyday eating, use turkey sausage or skip the bacon; but for feast days, go all in.
Flavors here are unapologetically “Northern”—porky, peppery, filling. The smell transports you to a snowbound farmhouse kitchen lined with hand-painted mugs. The tradition—of hiking out together, bracing the chill, and coming back rosy-cheeked for steaming plates—is as wonderful as the food itself. This, truly, is food for family, friends, and neighbours gathered in welcome light against a long, grey winter.
Whether you’re reviving childhood memories, eager to discover Germany’s edible regional heritage, or simply seeking a nourishing new take on winter kale, Grünkohl and Pinkel delivers. Try it once, and you may find—like Lower Saxons have for centuries—it’s not winter until the kale is on the table.