What makes this pie special

Black Sea Hamsi Pie takes inspiration from Türkiye’s northern coast, where the Black Sea’s cold waters teem with hamsi, the small, bright anchovies beloved from Samsun to Rize. This pie melds a crisp, golden cornmeal crust with layers of herb-scented aromatics and glistening anchovies arranged in a rosette. It is rustic yet elegant, sturdy enough for a seaside picnic and impressive enough for a family feast.

Cornmeal plays a starring role in the region historically known for maize cultivation. In Black Sea kitchens, cornmeal shows up in skillet breads, pancakes, and pies thanks to its toasty aroma and satisfying crunch. Here, it forms a flaky but robust base that stands up beautifully to the natural oils of anchovy, keeping the bottom crisp while the top dazzles with bronzed, shimmering fish.

Technique tips

• Dry the fish well: Removing moisture is the single most important step for crispness. After rinsing, pat the anchovies very dry. A light dusting of cornstarch is optional but helps wick away surface moisture.
• Keep fats cold: Cold butter in the dough creates pockets of steam as it bakes, giving lift and a short, flaky bite. Chill the dough briefly before rolling.
• Skin-side up: Arrange anchovies with their skins facing up. The skin renders and crisps, and the natural sheen becomes a gorgeous, lacquered finish.
• Hot surface advantage: Preheating a sheet tray and setting your pie pan atop it jump-starts browning on the base, crucial for cornmeal crusts.

Ingredient notes and substitutions

• Anchovies: Fresh hamsi are ideal and very mild when handled properly. If fresh is unavailable, use small sardines or smelt, cleaned and butterflied. Avoid heavily salted jarred anchovies for this pie; they are too intense and will oversalt the dish.
• Herbs: Dill and parsley are classic in the region, while scallions add sweet freshness. Cilantro is not traditional but can step in if you enjoy its citrusy notes.
• Yogurt in the dough: Yogurt tenderizes the crust and adds subtle tang. Sour cream can substitute; add water gradually until the dough just comes together.
• Heat: Pul biber brings warm fruitiness rather than searing heat. Substitute Aleppo-style pepper or a pinch of mild chili flakes if needed.

Serving suggestions

Serve the pie warm with lemon wedges to brighten the fish and cut through richness. A simple salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, and red onion with olive oil and a pinch of sumac mirrors coastal Turkish tables. For drinks, poured tea or ayran complement the savory crust and oily fish with refreshing contrast.

Make-ahead and storage

• Make-ahead: The dough can be prepared up to 48 hours in advance and refrigerated. Bring it to a cool, pliable state before rolling. The herb mixture can be sautéed and chilled a day ahead.
• Reheating: Warm slices in a 180°C oven for 10 minutes to re-crisp the crust. Avoid microwaving, which softens the cornmeal.
• Storage: Keep leftovers covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. The crust will remain pleasantly firm if reheated in the oven.

Cultural context and history

Anchovy season is a celebratory time along the Black Sea, where markets brim with silvery fish and homes perfumed by sizzling pans. Dishes like hamsili ekmek and hamsi kuşu feature cornmeal as both crust and coating, linking land and sea. Maize arrived centuries ago and became integral to local cooking, particularly in the rugged, rain-fed hills where corn thrives. This pie reflects that marriage: anchovies arranged with pride over a hearty corn foundation.

While Istanbul boasts refined meze and rich oven bakes, the Black Sea table leans into freshness and texture. The pie’s rosette arrangement is more than decoration; it ensures even cooking and allows every slice a balance of crisp skin, soft flesh, and crumbly, buttery crust. The aromatics echo the region’s green abundance, where herbs spill from gardens and find their way into breads, pilafs, and omelets.

Why you will love it

• Textural contrast: Shatteringly crisp crust, silky fish, and tender aromatics.
• Bold yet balanced flavors: Herb brightness and lemon zest harmonize with anchovy richness.
• Crowd-pleasing spectacle: The spiral of glossy fillets is visually striking and easy to portion.

Chef’s notes

If you are new to cooking fresh anchovies, this pie is a welcoming entry. Their flavor is gentle compared to jarred anchovies, and the vinegar rinse option neutralizes any lingering brininess without dulling character. Do not be shy with lemon at the table, and season assertively with pepper. For an outdoor meal, bake in a sturdy tart pan and carry it to the table still warm, the way coastal families might after a morning at the market. The first cut releases a buttery corn aroma mingled with the sweet scent of the sea, a delicious snapshot of the Black Sea shore.