Golden, lacy Montasio-and-potato pie from Friuli—crisp outside, tender inside. Great for sharing with salad, polenta, or a chilled white.
What makes this pie distinctly Friulian?
Frico is a beloved specialty of Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy’s Alpine–Adriatic region bordering Austria and Slovenia. Traditionally, it was a clever, frugal dish of malga (mountain dairy) herders who cooked cheese scraps and trimmings until they melted into a crisp-edged, hearty meal. Two principal styles exist: frico friabile (a thin, brittle cheese crisp) and frico morbido (a thicker, tender-centered cake enriched with potatoes and sometimes onions). This recipe leans toward the latter while chasing the shattering crispness of the former—hence the name “Cheese Crisp Pie.”
Why Montasio?
Montasio is the soul of frico. Born in the Julian Alps, it comes in different ages: young Montasio melts silkily and binds the pie; aged Montasio contributes a nutty sharpness and those irresistible lacy edges when the milk solids caramelize. If Montasio is hard to find, Asiago Pressato or a mild Fontina works well, though the flavor will shift slightly away from Friuli’s hallmark savor.
Technique notes for perfect crisp and melt
- Parboil, then grate: Cooking the potatoes briefly before grating drives off excess moisture and helps them cook through without turning gummy. Spread the grated potatoes to steam-dry.
- Pan matters: A heavy, well-seasoned cast-iron or a reliable nonstick skillet will give you even browning and an easy flip. Aim for 24–26 cm in diameter for the quantities listed.
- Cornmeal trick: A light dusting of fine polenta under the mixture creates extra crunch and helps the frico release.
- Heat control: Medium to medium-low is the sweet spot. Too high and the outside scorches before the center melts; too low and the crust won’t form.
- The flip: Use a plate larger than the pan. Invert confidently, then slide the frico back into the pan. Add a dab of butter if the surface looks dry.
Serving suggestions
Frico is filling and satisfying on its own, but it sings alongside bright, bitter, or tangy partners that cut its richness:
- A salad of radicchio with a sharp wine-vinegar dressing
- Pickled vegetables (giardiniera) or paper-thin fennel with lemon
- Soft polenta or grilled polenta slices
- Crisp apples or pear mostarda for a sweet-savory contrast
- A glass of Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, or a clean mountain lager
Variations and adjustments
- Purist: Skip the onion and herbs; use only young Montasio for an ultra-melty interior.
- Extra-lacy edges: Increase aged Montasio by 50 g and press the outer rim thinner so it fries into a golden halo.
- Smoky touch: Fold in a few matchsticks of speck (non-vegetarian, regional) or lightly smoked provola.
- Herbaceous: Chives and thyme add freshness without overpowering the cheese.
- Gluten-free assurance: This recipe is naturally gluten-free; the cornmeal dusting is maize-based.
Troubleshooting
- Sticking: The pan wasn’t hot enough or sufficiently greased. Preheat longer, add a teaspoon of oil, and run a spatula around the edge as it cooks.
- Greasy result: Too much fat or too low heat. Maintain a steady medium heat; blot excess surface fat with a paper towel before flipping.
- Soggy center: The potatoes held too much moisture or the frico was too thick. Dry the grated potatoes well and keep the layer about 1–1.5 cm thick.
Make-ahead and reheating
Make the mixture up to 6 hours ahead and refrigerate. Cook just before serving. Leftover frico re-crisps beautifully: reheat slices in a dry skillet over medium heat or in a 200°C oven for 6–8 minutes. Avoid microwaving, which softens the crust.
Cultural snapshot
Frico reflects Friuli’s resourcefulness and dairy heritage. Historically, cheesemakers turned the day’s odds and ends—rinds, shards, imperfect wheels—into a nourishing meal cooked on a wood stove. Today, it’s a point of regional pride, found at sagre (village festivals), mountain rifugi, and family tables. This humble pie connects you to that landscape: Alpine pastures, chestnut woods, and the Adriatic’s salty breezes, all in one golden, sizzling round.
Chef’s tip
Blend ages of Montasio for complexity, keep your skillet honest and hot, and don’t rush the crust. When you hear the gentle sizzle mellow and smell toasted dairy and potato, you’re moments away from a perfect slice of Friuli.