Ticino Polenta with Mountain Herbs

Ticino, the Italian-speaking canton of Switzerland, lives at the crossroads of Alpine heartiness and Mediterranean brightness. This recipe pays homage to both sides: slow-stirred, bramata-style polenta finished with mountain herbs, porcini, and a generous handful of aged Alpine cheese. The result is a bowl of deep comfort—silky, aromatic, and layered with savory depth—perfect after a brisk hillside walk or a winter evening by the fire.

About the dish

Polenta has long been a staple across northern Italy and southern Switzerland, where maize found a home centuries ago. In Ticino, polenta is traditionally cooked in a paiolo, a copper cauldron, over a wood fire. The technique is patient and unhurried; grains open and release starch, transforming into a creamy, spoonable canvas for whatever the mountains offer—herbs, mushrooms, cheese, and sometimes cured meats.

This version channels the forest floor with dried porcini, whose soaking liquor becomes a natural stock. A lemon-kissed herb butter—sage, thyme, and savory—cuts through the richness, while a final shower of Sbrinz or aged Gruyère ties everything together with a nutty, crystalline bite. Optional toppings, like toasted chestnuts and crisped speck, bring texture and an echo of autumn markets.

Ingredient spotlight

• Coarse polenta (bramata): Coarser grains stay pleasantly rustic, never gluey, and deliver satisfying bite.
• Dried porcini: A pantry treasure. Their soaking liquid is liquid umami—don’t discard it.
• Alpine cheese: Sbrinz offers crystalline crunch and depth; Gruyère brings nutty sweetness. Pecorino works if you prefer a saltier edge.
• Mountain herbs: Sage, thyme, and savory are classic. Rosemary or a touch of wild oregano are fine substitutes.
• Lemon zest: A small detail that brightens the entire bowl, preventing flavors from feeling heavy.

Technique notes

• Stirring rhythm: Early whisking prevents lumps. Once thickened, switch to a wooden spoon and stir every few minutes, scraping the bottom and sides. The goal is gentle, steady heat with soft bubbling.
• Liquid balance: Polenta is forgiving. If it seizes or becomes too thick, add a splash of hot water or milk and whisk vigorously. If too loose, cook a bit longer, stirring, to evaporate excess moisture.
• Herb butter timing: Dividing the herb–porcini mixture gives flavor in layers—first folded into the polenta for depth, then spooned over the top for aroma and sheen.

Tips and swaps

• Make it vegan: Use olive oil instead of butter, plant-based milk or vegetable stock, and a vegan hard cheese alternative or nutritional yeast.
• Alcohol-free: Skip the wine; add a teaspoon of cider vinegar or a squeeze of lemon to the herb pan for brightness.
• Hands-off method: After whisking polenta into the simmering liquid, cover and bake at 160°C for 45–60 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. Finish on the stovetop with cheese and herb butter.
• Texture preferences: For extra creamy polenta, add a small knob of butter and splash of milk just before serving and whisk vigorously.
• Herb flexibility: In summer, add a few chopped wild greens or nettles (blanched) for a fresh, green twist.

Serving ideas

• As a main: Top with chestnuts, remaining herb butter, and chives. Add a crisp salad of bitter leaves with a lemony dressing to contrast the richness.
• With mushrooms: Pile sautéed chanterelles or cremini on top for a fully vegetarian feast.
• With meat: Crisped speck or pancetta is traditional in many mountain homes; a few shards go a long way.

History and cultural context

Maize arrived in the Alpine regions in the 16th century, gradually replacing chestnut flour porridges. In Ticino, polenta became both everyday sustenance and a celebratory dish, often cooked outdoors in a hanging paiolo while families gathered. The combination of mushrooms, herbs, and cheese is anchored in seasonal rhythms—porcini drying racks in autumn, herb bundles hanging from rafters, and wheels of cheese aging quietly through winter. This recipe borrows these rhythms, offering a taste of storied valleys, alpine pastures, and the markets that bridge Swiss and Italian culinary traditions.

Make-ahead and storage

• Cool leftover polenta in a shallow pan until set. Slice and pan-fry the next day in a little butter or oil until crisp and golden on both sides—perfect with a fried egg or a handful of sautéed greens.
• Store in an airtight container up to 3 days. To reheat creamy polenta, stir with hot water or milk on the stovetop until smooth again.

Chef’s thoughts

What makes this plate sing is the interplay of textures: the creamy base, the chew of porcini, the slight crunch of good Alpine cheese, and the soft crumble of chestnuts. The lemon zest, though subtle, is indispensable; it lifts the herbs and brightens the earthy backbone. Don’t rush the cooking—polenta rewards patience. A low flame, a wooden spoon, and a few attentive stirs will reward you with a bowl that tastes like mountain air and warm kitchens.