Gathering and Cooking Puha the Māori Way

Gathering and Cooking Puha the Māori Way

In the lush, rolling landscapes of Aotearoa, or New Zealand, the quintessential taste of Māori cuisine resonates deeply through the generations. Among its many treasures, puha—wild purple-sown Sendings from New Zealand’s native flora—holds a special place. Its tender, slightly bitter leaves offer more than just a flavor; they encapsulate a story of connection, respect, and sustainable living, woven into the very fabric of Māori culture.

The Sacred Bond with the Land and Puha

For Māori communities, the act of gathering puha is much more than a foraging expedition; it is a sacred ritual rooted in respect for the land (fenua). Traditionally, kaumātua (elders) and whānau (family) venture into ngā pou whenua—a Māori term for treasured green spaces—armed with crafted kete (baskets) and sharpened kahiti (splitting tools), carefully selecting the freshest, most tender leaves available. The seasonality and location of puha influence the gathering, often dictated by local knowledge passed orally through generations.

The sight of pūha sprouting along riverbanks, in moist, shaded valleys—lush with vibrant greens—evokes a deep sense of reverence. For Māori, this act strengthens communal bonds, connecting people with their ancestors and the land. Every leaf harvested echoes a tradition of gratitude and environmental harmony.

How to Recognize and Gather Puha

Puha is distinguished by its soft, broad leaves, often tinged with a subtle purple hue along the edges—hence the name 'purple-sown.' It thrives in rich, moist soils, preferring riverbanks, swampy areas, and wetlands. The key to successful gathering lies in identification—the velvety texture, rounded shape, and the resilient, slightly serrated margins.

When foraging, look for tender, bright green leaves that haven't yet hardened or darkened. Younger leaves are preferred for their delicate, less bitter flavor. With care, gently pinch or cut the leaves, taking only what is needed to sustain the plant. Respect for kaitiakitanga—guardianship—triggers a sustainable approach, ensuring puha remains plentiful for future generations.

Preparing Puha Traditionally

Once gathered, the traditional Māori method of preparing puha involves minimal processing, championing simplicity to preserve its rich flavor and texture. After rinsing in clean, flowing water to remove any dirt or debris, the leaves are often chopped finely. In some regions, small twigs and stalks are discarded, keeping only the tender leaves.

Historically, pausare (immersion in boiling water) was common to soften the leaves and retain nutrients, especially during colder months or for ceremonial purposes. This process also reduces bitterness, making the greens more palatable and tender. The greens can then be drained, squeezing out excess moisture—ready to be incorporated into various dishes.

The Māori Way of Cooking Puha

Cooking puha traditionally aligns with resourcefulness and community-focused practices. One favored method is boiling the greens in a large, communal kaihanga (cooking pot) over an open fire, often seasoned simply with just salt or mako, depending on the occasion. The aroma of the greens simmering encircles the paepae (meeting house) and the voices of cooks and gatherers intertwine.

In more intricate preparations, puha is blended into 'rewana' or served as a side with smoked fish, kumara (sweet potato), or pork. The tender leaves are often sautéed with onions and garlic, or added into clear broths, infusing them with earthy, aromatic flavor.

A notable example is the 'Puha and Tītī Stew'—where the greens are simmered with wild game or seafood, creating a hearty, rich flavor profile. The puha’s slight bitterness complements the smoky, umami taste of the ingredients, producing a harmonious balance.

Incorporating Puha into Traditional Māori Dishes

Puha is not just a side; it is a core ingredient of many traditional Māori dishes. One such delight is the beloved Puha and pork fry, where freshly boiled puha is chopped and mixed with crispy, pan-fried pork belly, seasoned with garlic and Māori salt for added depth.

Another classic is Puha and Fish Roll-ups, where pickled puha is rolled with smoked kahawai or other ocean fish, wrapped in hōri tea leaves or native flax (harakeke). This dish showcases the subtle bitterness of puha counterbalanced by fatty, smoky fish—a true celebration of land and sea.

In more festive contexts, cooked puha is layered into traditional Māori hangi—an earth oven technique—embracing the smoky richness infused during slow, underground cooking.

Beyond Cooking: Puha as Cultural Embodiment

In Māori culture, puha embodies more than sustenance; it symbolizes kinship, environment stewardship, and spiritual harmony. During tangi (funeral rites), puha may be served as part of the whānau gathering, standing for resilience and continuity.

Additionally, healers and kaumātua regard puha for its medicinal properties—believed to aid digestion, soothe coughs, and purify the blood—an example of the Māori understanding of nature’s healing powers.

Tips for an Authentic Māori Experience with Puha

• Respect and permission: Always approach wild harvesting with humility, seeking permission from landowners or local Māori authorities.
• Seasonality awareness: Peak puha season varies by region but generally occurs from early spring to late autumn when the greens are most tender.
• Sustainable harvesting: Take only what you need, harvest responsibly, and leave enough leaves to allow the plant to regenerate.
• Utilize traditional tools: Use kahiti or framed knives—sharp, hand-crafted tools—to cut the greens, aligning with Māori craftsmanship.
• Community involvement: Invite local Māori to share their knowledge, recipes, and stories, enriching your culinary journey.

A Personal Reflection—Tasting the Tradition

I recall my first experience gathering puha along the banks of the Waiapu River. The air was thick with the aroma of damp earth and fresh greens, and the sense of tradition stirred my senses profoundly. Back in the kitchen, the simple act of boiling the greens transformed into a ritual—an act of honoring ancestors. When paired with freshly cooked Māori pork and kumara, the flavors melded into something transcendent, resonant of almost forgotten stories. It’s this communion—of land, people, and tradition—that makes cooking puha the Māori way an immersive, heartfelt experience.

Final Thoughts

Instrumental to Māori identity, puha embodies more than the taste of a wild green; it is a living symbol of community, environment, and cultural resilience. When gathered and prepared with reverence, it not only sustains the body but also nurtures the spirit. Incorporating purha into your culinary repertoire offers a portal into Māori heritage, inviting you to savor history, consciousness, and the profound harmony between land and people.

Embrace the tradition, celebrate the land, and let puha remind us of the enduring bonds that tie us to our roots—and to each other.